The top edge of the narrow strips of tile are mounted flush with the top edge of the Panel Support Batten. This supporting strip of wood has narrow 30mm strips of tile stuck to it so that it and the bath panel tiles match the tiles on the other walls at the same height above the floor. The presence of a tiled wooden batten keeps the MDF board on which the bath panel tiles are mounted well above any puddles of water that may form on the vinyl flooring.
FULLY TILED BATHROOM FULL
This height gave me space to have a tiled bath panel with full height tiles mounted on it, together with a tiled batten fixed to the floor for the tiled bath panel to sit on. These were fitted around the bath which I had mounted with the bottom edge of the rim at a specific height (49.4cm) above the floorboards. I also had to have a very narrow (30mm) strip of tiles at floor level, but that has allowed the bath panel to sit nicely on a batten fixed to the floor boards.Īfter fitting the bath and the semi-pedestal wash basin I tiled the walls throughout. I had to cut all the wall tiles that sat on the edge of the bath. However their cut edges are hidden under bath sealant. This was what allowed me to have a tiled bath panel with complete (full height) tiles on it. The bath height, which could be adjusted with screw-in feet, was set so that the bottom edge of the bath rim (rolled over edge) was level with the top of a row of tiles.The wall with a mirror had the tiles arranged and the mirror cut so that the mirror could be let into the tiles and take up a space exactly 2 tiles x 1½ tiles.
The window ledge was raised to make it come level with the bottom of a row of tiles.The wall with the window had the tiles arranged to fit symmetrically around it while maintaining good spacing in the corners of the room.Some parts of the bathroom were adjusted to best suit the tiles: If they had just been put on the walls after the bathroom suite had been installed and without any forethought there would have been some ugly tiling and an ugly tiled bath panel. Part of the bathroom design involved planning exactly how it was tiled since large Spanish tiles had been chosen (45cm x 31.6cm and 9mm thick) and mounted in portrait fashion. Designing A Bathroom To Accommodate A Tiled Bath Panel Only time would tell if this was a good idea. Then when it had to be replaced it could be held there with more silicon sealant just as before. I knew silicon sealant was strong and would make a good adhesive and I reasoned that it could easily be removed after cutting through the silicon sealant with a knife. I would hold it in place using mould resistant white ‘silicon sealant’ which would look just like white tile grout. I eventually came up with the idea of a panel that looked like a tiled wall, just like all the other walls in the room, but made in two sections at least to resolve the difficulty of getting it in and out of its place.
So I chose to have a tiled bath panel but needed to work out how I could construct it without using unsightly screws, bolts, hinges or handles. I wanted a bathroom that could tolerate being wet. Wood and wallpaper call for redecoration over the years and I had already decided to have a fully tiled room.
Many plain wooden bath panels look cheap and I was looking to remove as much painted wood from the room as possible.
FULLY TILED BATHROOM CRACKED
Over time that plastic panel cracked due to being bent where it should not have been bent. Due to that bath being a tight fit between two walls, and one end being near to a wash basin pedestal while the other was near to a door architrave, it was very difficult to manoeuvre the bath panel into place. The previous bath had a plastic panel which was moulded to a fancy shape and was the full length of the bath.
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